I think me and lakes are having a bit of a moment. I fell in love with Lake Como the moment I opened the windows, the moment morning sun - or what little winter rays there were - fell onto the palazzos and the wide expanse of water. Well, I'm sorry Como, but Salzburg's beautiful lake districts (immortalised in the Sound of Music, of course) just trumped you. We were lucky to see them on a bright, sunshin-y day, completely bizarre for the middle of January, but there you have it. The sky was blue, the air was crisp but not cold, there was no wind. Just awe-inspiring mountains all around us, and then water so clear we could see straight to the bottom in front of us. Each lake seemed determined to out-do the next - bigger, better, brighter, bolder. How wonderful it must look in summer, we thought, green and luscious and fragrant. But then you'd have to share it with others who all had the same idea as you. That day in Salzburg we got lucky. Even though the sky was blue and the sun was bright everyone seemed to have gone elsewhere; in search of snow, perhaps, for a toboggan or a sled. So we got the lakes to ourselves - plus a few friendly swans - which was lovely, and actually kind of perfect.