For having lived in Westminster - how many years now? Over twenty, - one feels even in the midst of the traffic, or waking at night, Clarissa was positive, a particular hush, or solemnity; an indescribable pause; suspense (but that might be her heart, affected, they said, by influenza) before Big Ben strikes. There! Out it boomed. First a warning, musical; then the hour, irrevocable. The leaden circles dissolved in the air. Such fools we are, she thought, crossing Victoria Street. For Heaven only knows why one loves it so, how one sees it so, making it up, building it round one, tumbling it, creating it every moment afresh; but the veriest frumps, the most dejected of miseries sitting on doorsteps (drink their downfall) do the same; can't be dealt with, she felt positive, by Acts of Parliament for that very reason: they love life. In people's eyes, in the swing, tramp and trudge; in the bellow and the uproar; the carriages, motor cars, omnibuses, vans, sandwich men shuffling and swinging; brass bands; barrel organs; in the triumph and the jingle and the strange high singing of some aeroplane overhead was what she loved; life; London; this moment of June."
Virginia Woolf, Mrs Dalloway
Jessica Stanley
I loved what Jessica said about London on the Benah blog. Aside from writing a fantastic guide that is forming the basics (alongside Dead Fleurette's tips) for my upcoming trip, she touched on something that has always - to me at least - seemed so true about London. Having experienced it so often and so vividly in literature when I was younger, in everything from Peter Pan to Mrs Dalloway, Vile Bodies to P.G Wodehouse, my first visit to London was like going back to a childhood home or the summer holiday destination of your youth. Everything was familiar and then not familiar, everything seemed exactly as I had imagined - or had it imagined for me - and yet the city was still able to surprise me. I'd like it to continue doing that for as long as possible, and my upcoming trip seems like as good a place as any to start. So if anyone has any tips for London - places to eat, drink and be merry are most important! - especially in and around the covent garden/soho area because that's where I'm staying, please leave a comment or send them to hryee1@hotmail.com. I can't wait to see even more of this city that has always seemed to me like it could be, or become, a real home.
X



7 comments:
Courtauld Gallery! the best small selection of art from Renaissance to 20th century and *GASP* no tourists! maybe you´ve been there/heard about it, if not, definitely worth a visit. x
I have no recommendations because I've never been to London. But I too feel like it's a home I've never experienced. Literature has planted the same seed in my heart.
x missdottidee.blogspot.com
London feels like a destination I will never tire of, because like you said it has all the magic of a city captured so vividly in literature, tremendous history, and it's incredibly modern at the same time, with so much culture to offer.
I didn't eat anywhere of note beyond what others have mentioned; but I had a really good burger from a stand at Borough market - spectacular combination of thickly sliced bacon and stilton cheese. Market itself is a bit too touristy but there lots of great coffee in the area as well. I liked Monmouth Coffee but I had another equally good cup at from a stall in Borough market itself as well.
I also had an amazing chocolate chip scone from Whole Foods in Kensington. It's almost embarrassing, how much I long for that scone.
I had a pretty memorable lunch at Dinner by Heston Blumenthal at the Mandarin Oriental; not hearty comfort stuff but a great fun if you want to surprise your palate. Also, a nice dinner at Duke of Cambridge Organic Pub, but thought it was expensive for what it was.
And no one should leave London without a visit to Liberty's and Margaret Howell's boutique on Wigmore Street.
Hurray! You're coming to my city! You must must eat at Bocca di Lupo on Archer Street, Soho (book), drink cocktails at Milk and Honey - it's members only but call ahead early in the week and they let you in. Afternoon tea at The Wolseley, wander round the National Portrait and National Gallery, got to French Sole on Ellis Street for the most perfect ballet flats, Liberty because it's fabulous - think I should probably email you!x
How fabulous! You'll love London. I only live an hour train ride away from the city. There's so much to do and see. Catch a musical, walk instead of catching the tube, admiring the landscape and architecture. Personally, I love Nopi which is a short stroll from Liberty (a must see), Fortnum & Mason, National Portrait Gallery, British Museum, V&A Museum. Afternoon High Tea is a must at The Wolseley (as Milly had mentioned) even if it is to gawk at the wonderfully fashionable crowd.
Alcohols - the courtald gallery... I had a friend who went to the courtauld to study art, is it in the same place? somerset house? there's also a valentino exhibition on there at the moment right?? thanks for the tip!
Sarah - all because of books! You should see me in bath, I'm like "I know all about it from jane austen" haha.
Lin - wow thank you! I agree, I can never tire of london, even if it doesn't have that same romantic spark as paris it feels like such a home... I am so comfortable there! Mmmm I think this trip I'm definitely going to try borough market.. Monouth coffee is quite close to where I'm staying so I'll try and make a pit sot there. I have never been to margaret howell's store so I have to rectify that!! Excited to see it.
Milly - hello! Yes, and if you're free for coffee or cake or something let me know. I love all your tips and since I have never been to the national portrait gallery (crazy!!! I know!) and they have a marilyn mnoroe exhibition on I think that will be top of my list :)
Chcolate and cookies - thank you I'm so excited!! Fortnum and mason, the dream. :) I'm excited for the v&a every time I've tried to go in the past it has been closed so this time I'm going to make it I swear!! And the wolseley, ok, that one is a must now, two recommendations is a winner :)
xxx
I was just in london last week and absolutely agree with the Benah post that Columbia Flower Market is the best thing to do on a Sunday Morning.
Just some other suggestions:
-If you'll be going to Margaret Howell check out Meat Liquor around the corner for some delicious burgers (can be a bit of a wait but if you're there around 6pm it shouldn't be too bad).
-Somerset House is doing an exhibition on Tim Walker's Photography and it's pretty well done
-For a good meal, Polpo (they have locations in soho and covent garden) is a great italian spot. I've also heard good things about Morimoto (tapas style right next to the original Moro in exmouth market)
- If you'll be in Notting Hill area walk down Westbourne Grove for the shops and have brunch at Granger and Co. with their all day breakfast menu (Ottolenghi is right around the corner if you fancy some coffee afterwards)
- "Constellations" is playing right now and it's a gem of a play.
Hope you have fun xxx
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